An Evening With Royalty

Her Highness Sheikha Moza Bint Nasser

So, as a member of the Cancer Support Group in Doha, I was invited to the Sheraton Hotel for  the launching of the five year cancer initiative, where the very high profiled Sheikha Moza, as Vice Chairman of Supreme Council of Health, made an appearance.  In Doha, she is very well respected and known for her tireless efforts to improve education and health care in Qatar. She was named by Forbes as on of the 100 most powerful women, and is likened to Jackie Kennedy (who else is the ultimate icon of fashion?) for her elegance and style. Although she wore the traditional abiya (as in the photo above), she often wears chanel suits and other designer clothing when traveling abroad (visiting the Queen of England or the Obamas or the Queen of Spain) and her hair is usually only partially covered!

I was seated at the second table to the front, and Moza sat in a chair along with other dignitaries a few rows ahead of our table. She certainly had a regal and chasrismatic presence. Several people spoke about cancer care in Qatar, pledging their dedication and outlining the plan for the 2 billion dollar project to make cancer care in Qatar as good as the best care in the world. I feel very excited about this project and am so grateful to have the support and leadership of this group. The women I have met have been so friendly and accepting, sensitive and compassionate. Last night I met yet another woman who was one of the pioneers in breast cancer networking in Doha. Her husband is British, she is Indian, and they live in Doha. She has done so much to help women feel less alone, to help them find resources to cope, and gave me some very helpful information. I even saw a Qatari woman who had pink ribbons in sequins on her veil. she was not a survivor or patient, but rather a nurse who wanted to show support.  I think the fact that Moza is highlighting this disease makes so many feel less alone and overcomes the stigma which many women with breast cancer have felt, especially in this region.

As soon as Sheikha Moza arrived, a hush fell over the banquet room and the doors were closed.  When she entered, the assembly rose in silence and the only sound was the clicking and flashing of cameras from reporters. Although the majority of the people were Arab, there was also a large number of Westerners present, including Ellie LeBaron, the wife of the American Ambassador, who is also a breast cancer survivor. Sheikha Moza did not speak, but she did take the stage for a gift presentation and photos. After she left, the banquet was served. The evening was very uplifting and made me, as a cancer patient, feel the power of community beyond my country and church and into a universal forum.It was very exciting.

More Photos

                                          "Hi Everyone!"

                                          The Pool at Our Villa

      

                                          Mia watering the flowers.

                                          Amy and Mia at The Cultural Village

                                           Paul and Mia at the Cultural Village

                                          Qatari Boy at The Cultural Village

                                          Paul and Mia at the Furniture Souk

                                          "Hi Everyone!"

                                           Under The Waterfall at the pool

                                          Mia watering the flowers at our villa               

                                           Amy and Mia at the Cultural Village

                                          Paul and Mia at The Cultural Village

                                           Young Qatari at The Cultural Village

                                          Paul and Mia at the Furniture Souk

                                         Amy at The Cultural Village (Yes, my hair is growing back!)

Eating Out

One of the favourite activities among expats and Qataris alike is eating out.  The choices of restaurants is vast and impressive, covering a wide range of ethnic choices, although Middle Eastern food is most common. Customers are encouraged to eat in a leisurely fashion and the service is usually excellent.

 On Thursday night, Paul, Mia and I went to the Ramada Hotel for a buffet through Paul's work. A few noteable points: Paul is very respected and liked by his boss, co-workers and subordinates; the American flag was missing among the ten flags flying at the hotel (and this was done intentionally so we learned so as not to make the hotel a "target") ; and Mia was not allowed in the banquet room since alcohol was being served. Although hotels are a ''free zone" regarding the ban on alcohol, there still are certain restrictions.  Since Mia couldn't go in, Paul, Mia and I ate outside the banquet room, in the foyer. Several people from Paul's company (QPM---Qatari Project Management) came out periodically and joined us. The hotel restaurants are usually more expensive and have a larger amount of expats in them than do those in the rest of Doha.

On Friday night, Paul, Mia and I went to an Iranian Restaurant at the Souk for dinner. This restaurant was recommended to us by some women in my cancer support group. No, we haven't forgotten what happened, but I believe that most people are not very political and really are only concerned with their families and circle of friends. The restaurant itself was stunning (to use Mia's word) and opulent (to use Paul's word) in a unique way. The restaurant was designed in a square with a fountain in the middle and a balcony overlooking the eating area.The floor, walls, and ceiling were all done in handmade tiles. The tiles on the ceiling were cut glass, reflecting the colors of the many chandeliers throughout the room.  Some of the chandeliers were pink, others yellow or blue or green.  The tiles on the walls were red, blue, gold and green--there were also murals in the long hallway leading into the restaurant and in the private sitting areas around the outside of the eating area where one could lounge on huge cushions on the floor.  These private sitting areas had heavy tapesteries as drapes and anyone who wishes could choose to eat there.  There was another room which our very friendly Iranian waitor showed us where a long banquet table with huge ornate chairs and mirrored celing tiles and endless floor and wall tiles reflected the many chandeliers on the ceiling.  Another room was all mirrors at various angles and glass celing tiles and detailed floor tiles. Very interesting.  And, to top it off, there was even live traditional Middle Eastern music (one man playing keyboard with another playing violin, then flute) later in the evening.  Paul ordered spinach stew;I ordered steak with saffron rice; Mia ordered french fries(which can be bought everywhere); and we all shared saffron ice cream with strawberry juice for desert. I think Mia wished we had gone to Baskin Robbins for dessert.

Then, we walked around the Souk and browsed. We also saw a group of Qatari musicians and a group of Qatari men dancing together while women in abiyas with veils (many with only their eyes visible) sat in the chairs facing the musicians. I don't know if the women were in any way related to the men.  The men were also dressed in traditional costumes (long white dish dash and white headpieces wuith black cords).

The Red, White, and Blue

Dear Readers,
The last few days I have been filled with a great longing for the American Flag, just to see it waving in the wind, the sun shining upon it on the 4th of July, remembering all those school days we pledged our allegiance, and the girl scout flag ceremonies, the cub scouts saluting the colors on pack night, streams of red and white stripes waving along sidewalks on Memorial Day, the flag wrapped around a war protestor somewhere in my childhood.  How many times I dressed my children in stars and stripes for the 4th of July parade, or the flag stickers and t-shirts and ribbons decorating party hats on Lincolon's birthday, now all those moments stand out as a symbol of the country I love and the freedom it offers. And more.  I remember the flag, new and bold, folded neatly and placed in my mother's arms as my father's body was lowered into the ground on a dreary November day. My father came upon the shores of Normandy in WWII the second day of the invasion. I have such a yearning to display the American flag, but of course, that is illegal here. When I go home this summer, I intend to get an American flag to hang somewhere inside our villa where I can be proud of who I am.

Muslim Bride

By way of a chance encounter, I had the honor of being invited to a traditional Arabic wedding. Unfortunately, I wasn't able to attend.  I hope I'll get another invitation in the future! How did this come about? I went to a "no appointments necesssary" manicure/pedicure salon at the Villagio Mall and while having services done, three veiled Qatari women came inside.  Once inside the "ladies only" mini salon, they uncovered their faces.  They were (most likely) in their early twenties and very giddy and friendly...I commented on their henna tatoos on their hands and feet and they explained that they had just had this done at a pre-nuptial party and one of them was the bride! After talking a while, and learning I was American, the sister of the bride invited me to come to the wedding that night (she gave me the address and her cell phone number).  She explained that the wedding party was segregated (men at one location, women at another)   and that the groom would make an appearance later in the evening to dance with the bride. She said that the women did not wear their abiyas, but rather dressed very formally in evenings gowns.  I explained that I wasn't prepared for a formal wedding, but she said she only "wanted to welcome me to Qatar" and thought I would like to see the wedding.  I was very interested, but Paul and Mia and I actually had other plans. The bonding among women is very strong here and friendship is taken seriously. This is true with the men also.

Grocery Shopping

So, I have been asked to give more information about grocery shopping here in Doha.  First of all, there are many choices as far as stores go: the place with the most American products (my favorite cereal, bagels (yes, in an Arab country!), half and half, etc…) is Mega Mart; the store with the most British products is Spinneys (they also carry a lot of gourmet items like caviar or pate or whatever); the HUGE grocery store that is a “big box” store with food, clothing, hardware, carpets,etc..is CarreFourre, a French grocery store; the store that is equally as HUGE is LuLu Market, which is Arabic.  LuLu market has dazzling multicolor lights on the outside streaming down the entire front of the building.

 These stores are always packed on the weekend evenings, especially LuLu Market and CarreFourre. Seriously, it’s as busy as it is at home the day before Thanksgiving. Who shops?  Everyone, from every country imaginable: Arabs, expats, Indians, Filipinos, Africans, etc… CarrFourre and Lulu Market have the most selection of produce and meat, but not the best quality. The prices are higher at Spinneys and Mega mart, but the quality and service is better.

 Last week, we went to a new grocery store which just opened up near here and has the added attraction of a “Big Fun for Little Ones” (indoor amusement park) and restaurant inside.  The store is not as huge as Lulus or CarreFourre, or as plush as Spinneys or Mega Mart, but is a good medium, and not too crowded. We went early Saturday morning, when most people are still sleeping, so it was actually a relaxing experience. We bought shrimp, quail eggs, beef, chicken, lettuce, tomatoes, plums, bananas, Oreos, milk, orange juice, flour and sugar, popcorn (yes!), peanut butter (double yes!), honey (very popular here), dates (also popular), soup (Campbell’s but tomato soup is only found at Mega mart), napkins, Clorox wipes, pine sol, and recess peanut butter cups! All of our water is bottled. Needless to say, we have many choices with food. 

There are also MANY small grocery stores where one can buy milk or eggs or whatever…and many small bakeries where one can buy pastry or dates…carry out is very popular here and every store or restaurant delivers anywhere (pool side service for example) .  My observation has been that many people survive on carry out and dining out.  There is a small restaurant nearby where we ordered carry out shish kabob, hummus, taboulah, and pita bread for three for only about the equivalent of 5.00! and, the food was so good. Pizza is also popular here (doesn’t everyone like pizza?).

The following American chains are “here”: KFC (very popular with Arabs), Pizza Hut, Papa Johns Pizza, Baskin Robins, Krispy Kreme Doughnuts, McDonalds, Burger King.  We never go to any of these place---O.K., we do go to Baskin Robins and Krispy Kreme.

There are also many local places that serve traditional Lebanese food, even as fast food.  And, in case you don’t know, alcohol is illegal here.  Strict Muslims do not drink alcohol. So, there is no alcohol in restaurants, unless they are hotel restaurants, where the rules don’t apply. Unlike Abu Dhabi, one can get a liquor license here, and purchase alcohol at certain places with your license. On the other hand, tropical nonalcoholic fruit drinks are very popular and served everywhere—very delicious!!!

The Museum of Islamic Art

Last Saturday, Paul, Mia and I visited the Museum of Islamic Art (MIA), which is a beautiful museum desgned by I.M. Pei, the famous Chinese-American architect. (He also designed the pyramid-shaped annex to the Louvre in Paris.) The building is very pristine, with straight geometric shapes that are very consistent with Arabic architecture. There is a long row of palm trees leading up to the building which is actually on an island in the Persian Gulf. The building consists of five floors and the atrium in the center is visible from each floor. The art work in the museum is all Islamic, which is more functional than deliberate. Many carpets, tapestries, writings from the Koran, and tiles from buildings, and vases and jewelry were on display.  There was also a science section with elaborate, beautiful maps and globes from the age of discovery. Mia was very interested in the art, especially the calligraphy.  She does very well in the adult world of me and Paul. Because she has taken several trips to the art institute in Chicago, she knows how to approach art and isn't bored looking at art work. I bought a small print of Arabian horses in the gift shop.  There is a children's section to the museum, but one needs an "appointment" to go inside! Maybe we will have the opportunity to go back once I am driving.

Speaking of art, Mia has become very creative now that she is free of the structure of school and can be completely self directed. (I say this with complete respect for school and teachers, by the way!) She has written several "books" which are essentially short stories with illustrations.  The story ideas are very clever: "steps for flying in an airplane," "doggie in a box," "you don't want to read this book!,"  "tropical vacation," kiki's photo album," "the aliens attack and the wild ghost chase," "best Christmas ever," "bad kid," etc...(there will be twelve in all). The stories involve the same characters with different episodes.  When we left the USA,  Mia was watching "ICarly" on cable. Although this show is not available here, I was able to find the episodes on DVD at Villagio Mall.  So, she is enjoying the show and very interested in the way the characters are evolving throughout the series.

Driving In Qatar

Since I am an American, I must go to driving school before I can take the test for a license here.  This is not true with other nationalities.  Many of their licenses are accepted here, and no one has to go to driving school if they have a license in their own country.  So, what is the problem with Americans?  Well, the story is that a high ranking Qatari official was denied a car rental in the USA so now he is "punishing" Americans by not letting Americans here get by easily.This seems especially ironic given the the fact that driving here is so chaotic. It seems that very few drivers have any idea what the rules might be...people shift from lane to lane randomly, make left turns from right lanes...there are roundabouts throughout the city which few people approach with caution, most speed around and get off of and on to in a very inconsistnet, rash manner. Car accidents happen often, despite the fact that no one would ever drive under the influence of alcohol (zero tolerance for that here!). So, since I do not have my license, I rely upon Paul and taxis.  Recently, a taxi driver gave me his card, so I often call him direct for rides.  He is always available, although there is sometimes a bit of a wait.

As  it turns out, the driver loves America and Obama. He is from Kenya, "the same tribe as Obama" and seems to take great pride in this. He is also a big fan of American football and basketball and of course--Michael Jordan!!  He was especially excited with the fact that we are from Chicago. He is trying to talk me and Mia into taking our next trip to Kenya.  It certainly sounds beautiful.

In some respects, taking a taxi or having a driver is actually cheaper than buying or renting a car.  The most I have ever had to pay to go across town is 50 riyals (around 12 dollars) and the average is 25 riyals (around 6 dollars).

By the way, gas is cheaper than water here, and most people drive big cars, such a SUV's, and usually white.  Despite the "SAND-DUST" problem here, cars are very clean.  The car wash is very affordable, including vacuumin and cleaning rims, for around 5 dollars. There are usually attendents at each mall offering to wash one's car while one is shopping, also for around 5 dollars. Of course, none of these service people are Qatari.  Thery are usually Indian or Fillipino.  The Fillipinos are always cheerful and friendly.The money they earn in this way is usually sent home to their families.  Most men are here without their families (75% of the population is male). People work very hard just to survive and are very dedicated to their families, despite the fact that they are apart.